Mountaineering in Switzerland

Introduction to Swiss climbing

Switzerland lies in the heart of the Alps and as such is a very mountainous country with many peaks over 4.000m. The most famous are the Eiger, the Jungfrau and the Mönch near Interlaken and the Matterhorn near Zermat in the south. In addition to mountaineering, there are also many pure climbing areas in Switzerland in various types of rock such as granite, limestone and gneiss.

There are 3 different climbing areas in Switzerland, namely:

• Jura Mountains in the north
• Western Swiss Alps
• Eastern Swiss Alps.

Jura Mountains

The Switzerland Plaisir Jura climbing guide (Topo) describes the climbing areas in the Jura with difficulty levels up to F6cThe Jura is a small mountain range in northern Switzerland that separates the Rhine and Rhone rivers. This region stretches from Lake Geneva to France and Germany. The climbing is mainly on limestone, but there are also some granite rocks such as the Falkenstein. There is a good mix of single-pitch sport routes through to long multi-pitch routes. In general, all routes are well secured, although some of the multi-pitch routes require trad equipment such as cams and nuts.

Climbing in the Jura Mountains is generally at a lower altitude than in the alpine regions of Switzerland, making this area an ideal destination during inclement weather in the mountains or during the fall and spring seasons. As for the climbing guides, the area is covered by the Switzerland Plaisir Jura, where routes up to difficulty level F6c are described. The Switzerland Extreme Jura guide contains routes between F6a and F8a. Buy these Jura climbing guides in our shop.

Western Swiss Alps

Switzerland Plaisir West Volume 1 contains routes between Freiburg and Goschenen with a difficulty level of up to F6b. The Swiss Alps are divided into the Western and Eastern Alps by the Rhine. The Western Alps (sometimes referred to as the Bernese Oberland) are the largest climbing region in Switzerland and include Interlaken and the famous Eiger, Jungfrau and Mönch mountains. The limestone cliffs here offer many bolted single-pitch and multi-pitch routes, many of which are hundreds of meters long. The multi-pitch routes are usually traditional alpine routes, which usually require trad equipment such as: b Cams and nuts require, but there are also some climbing routes. The largest bouldering area in the region is in Kandersteg, which consists of a mix of limestone and sandstone rocks.

The ideal time to visit the Western Swiss Alps for climbing is in summer due to the region's high altitude. There are 3 comprehensive guides for these areas: There are 2 x Switzerland Plaisir West which describe routes up to difficulty level F6b. Switzerland Plaisir West Volume 1 describes routes between Friborg and Goschenen. He covers the climbing areas south of Bern, around Interlaken, the Susten Pass, the Grimsel Pass and the Furka Pass. Switzerland Plaisir West Volume 2 describes routes between Martigny and Brig, the guide Switzerland ExtremWest routes from difficulty level F6b throughout the western Swiss Alps. Buy these guides in our shop.

Eastern Swiss Alps

The guide Switzerland Plaisir Ost (Topo) describes rock climbing in the Eastern Swiss Alps with a difficulty level of up to F6c. The area around Andermatt, Grimsel, Susten and Nufenen is often referred to as the heart of the Swiss Alps. In this area there are many bolted single-pitch and multi-pitch sport routes with a length of up to 400 m, which usually run in granite rocks, but also in limestone and gneiss rocks. The multi-pitch routes in this area are a mix of fully bolted and traditional alpine routes that require cams and nuts. There are also numerous granite bouldering areas, the largest of which are around the Grimsel Pass and the Gotthard Pass. Both areas are described in the Swiss Bloc guide, which you can buy in our shop.

The ideal time to visit the Eastern Swiss Alps for climbing is in summer due to the region's altitude. The comprehensive guide for climbing in this area is called Switzerland Plaisir Ost and contains routes up to difficulty level F6c. Buy Switzerland Plaisir East in our shop. The selective guide Dreams of Switzerland describes 42 of the best multi-pitch climbing routes between F4c and F6b+ in this area.

The best 10 mountain hiking and mountaineering routes

1-    The great myth

The first stage to Holzegg runs through beautiful pastures and forest sections or - as described here - can be covered with the small cable car. Today's Mythenweg begins in Holzegg (1405 m) at 2400 m. length The mountain path on these Great Myths has existed since October 1864. The serpentine path with 47 bends leads to Grosser Mythen (1899 m). The mountain rises on all sides and offers a wonderful panoramic view of the Glarus and Uri Alps, Lake Lucerne and the lowlands. The climb from Holzegg takes about 1 hour and 15 minutes if you are in good shape. Others need more time depending on their fitness level as the path is very steep. At bend 29 there is a stone bench to rest on. The panoramic view is tempting and a refreshment station at the Mythenhaus, which was newly built in 1991, offers a welcome break.

Good footwear is required for the climb and some mountain hiking experience is recommended. You should be free from giddiness and sure-footed. However, climbing is not necessary for the Great Myths. In the 1980s, a particularly tricky section before this summit was defused and the route optimized. In addition, you should only walk on the hiking trail and never off it, as that would be dangerous.

A special experience is the sunrise on this great myth. Anyone who sets off early in the morning with a good headlamp will be rewarded with a beautiful sunrise. Note the different sunrise times.

Also the climb on the 1st. August is very popular. In the evening a large campfire is lit on a steel cross. This large mythical cross can be seen as the mountain fire in the entire Swiss valley basin. From the Grosse Mythen you also have a wonderful view of various fireworks displays in the valley, including the large fireworks display in the Brunnensee basin.

2-    Alpe di Neggia - Mount Gambarogno - Indemini

The starting point of the hike is the bus stop on Alpe di Neggia. Here you can stop and stay overnight at the Ristorante Ritrovo di Neggia (+41 91 795 19 97). The hiking trail is located right at the upper end of the gorge and leads along a beautiful mule track to the northwest of Monte Gambarogno. A little below the summit the path branches off to the left. The path winds up to the summit and you can enjoy unique views of Lake Maggiore, the Alpine world and deep views of the Maggia estuary delta.

The descent leads to the fork in the road, where you turn left and walk down the western slope to Alpe di Cedullo (+41 91 794 13 83 / +41 79 327 81 75). The farm offers overnight accommodation and a cozy mountain restaurant with traditional Alpine dishes such as polenta with goat cheese, eggs (alpine products) and bacon as well as various Ticino meat dishes. If you want, you can also buy the Alpine cheese made on site.

From the Alpe di Cedullo we go to the Oratorio di Sant' Anna hill with its small church. The Madonna del Monte - Mother of God of the Mountain - prayer house has the year 1654 on the facade, but was probably built earlier. Behind the chapel is the hermitage, which today serves as a refuge.

We continue along the slopes of the Sassi Gialli, cross the Valle del Ri and descend through a birch forest to Indemini. This typical Ticino village has retained its old-fashioned charm. The houses were built from local, gray gneiss and shape the uniform character of the village. The winding streets invite you to explore. There are no hotels in Indemini. Instead, lunasole (+41 91 780 44 70) offers accommodation in a rustic house. Fausto and Orietta at Ristorante Grotte Indeminese (+41 91 795 12 22) offer culinary delights.

3-    SAAS Almagell: Monte Moro Pass

By bus from Saas Almagell to the Mattmark reservoir, 2203 m. On the west bank of Lake Mattmark you follow the road to Distelalp and Tälliboden. From here the historic path leads over stone slabs to Monte Moro, 2868 m, with the statue of the Virgin Mary. There is an impressive view of the east face of Monte Rosa with the Dufourspitze.

The Monte Moro pass has been a popular crossing for many centuries. Walsers from Valais settled on the Italian side. The remains of the old houses are still preserved today.

From the pass it goes steeply down to Macugnaga, 1307 m. If you don't want to climb the 1500 meters, you can also take the cable car down to Macugnaga, just below the pass (note the time!). The path leads past the Rifugio Gaspard Oberton, where you can have a snack.

In Macugnaga there are several osterias and you can stay in albergos and hotels. From here a bus goes to Domodossola and from there there are train connections back to the General Brigade.

Note: Since this hike is still partially covered with snow in early summer, very good footwear and sure-footedness are absolutely necessary.

4-    Oberalp Pass - Pazolastock - Rheinbrunnen

From the Oberalp Pass a hiking trail leads south to the Puozas (swamps) and through alpine pastures to the Pazolastock. On this route to the source of the Rhine via the Pazolastock, the steepest section is already behind you. On the zigzag path there are approx.160 meters in altitude to overcome. Surefootedness is required here. From the Pazolastock we continue on a rocky ridge to Fil da Tuma - it's worth having a head for heights. Under a fascinating rocky outcrop the path climbs down to the Badus hut and on to Lake Toma: Lai da Tuma (2345m). It is recommended to rest here in the peaceful world of the mountains. There is a descent of about 20 minutes between the Badus Hut and Lake Toma. Cotton grass blooms around Lake Toma in early summer. The small white tufts of wool decorate this landscape and are particularly worth a visit.

The small and unusual Badushütte is located near Lake Toma, the source of the Rhine. Above the hut there are several climbing routes with difficulty levels III to V. The hike further to the Oberalp Pass is easy (T2 - sometimes T1), but the path is somewhat exposed and steep in places. This can be a little uncomfortable in wet weather. However, the exposed areas are secured with ropes.

Lake Toma (Lai da Tuma) - a nature reserve - is considered the official source of the Rhine. In Graubünden, the Rhine is fed by 12 mountain streams. The source of the Rhine is at 2345m., below Piz Badus and flows 1231km. further, near Rotterdam, into the North Sea. The port of Rotterdam is just below sea level. A replica of the lighthouse stands on the Oberalp Pass as a symbol of the source of the Rhine. The original lighthouse stands at the mouth of the Rhine near Rotterdam. From its source, the Rhine flows over rocks and between limestone cliffs through the Surselva, past the bizarre erosion landscape of the Rhine Gorge, the "Swiss Grand Canyon", before flowing into the Hinterrhein near Reichenau. It then flows on to Lake Constance, to Basel, through Germany and the Netherlands until it flows into the North Sea near Rotterdam as a mighty European river. In the catchment area of ​​this 1.Around 50 million people live in the 231 kilometer long stretch of the Rhine. It's time to discover this source of life for yourself.

5-    Stoos: Hike to the summit of the Klingenstock - Fronalpstock

The steepest funicular in the world, which was built for tourist purposes, Schwyz/Schlattli-Stoos or the Morschach-Stoos cable car, takes you to the car-free holiday and leisure paradise of Stoos at an altitude of 1,300 meters in just a few minutes. After a walk through the mountain village, you can take the 6-seater gondola lift (weather permitting) to the Klingenstock. From the starting point at the top of the Klingenstock, the path leads west to Rottwende and Nollen. The climb to Huserstock can be done additionally, or you can descend directly to Furggeli. The prepared mountain path is partly carved into the rock and secured with chains. However, sure-footedness and a head for heights are required. From the Furggeli hut, the final ascent to the Fronalpstock summit takes place, where you can relax and enjoy the panorama in the highest restaurant in the canton of Schwyz.

Tip: This is a unique ridge walk that should only be undertaken in good weather. In any case, you should have done it once in your life. Since it is in close proximity to the large cities in the center of central Switzerland and therefore the paths are quite crowded on weekends, you should definitely follow the advice of the cable car ticket office and preferably hike in the direction described here: Klingenstock-Fronalpstock and not in the opposite direction . There are places where you have to overtake hikers going in the opposite direction. Of course, it is advisable to only share the view with a few people during the week. See also our tips for avoiding caravan trips and Grüezie trails.

6-    Holzegg - Zwäcken - Furgellenstock - Brunni

The starting point of the hike is the Brunni cable car station, which takes you to the Holzegg in just a few minutes. In around an hour you can also undertake the easier climb of around 300 m on gravel, forest and meadow paths, which is definitely worth it.

A special view of the Grosse Mythen with its impressive rock face as well as the view of Schwyz and the Stoos fascinates upon arrival at the Berggasthaus Holzegg (tel. +41 41 811 12 34). On this impressive hike through the Ibergeregg nature reserve with its moors and swamps, you will always be accompanied by impressive and mythical stories. At the beginning the path leads along a wide, comfortable gravel path with a beautiful view into the Alpthal, past the idyllic Bruder Klaus vo Flüe chapel and the small Holzegg ski hut (Tel: +41 41 811 23 48). Immediately afterwards the path leads into a forest section with a moderate gradient. After approx. After 30 minutes of easy ascent and descent on the gravel path via Stäglerenegg and Müsliegg you reach the Zwäcken Alpine hut (tel. +41 41 810 33 57), which offers a wonderful view of the central Swiss mountains ahead of us and invites you to take a break with a wide range of alpine dishes. Early risers will be delighted with an Alpine breakfast.

From here a mountain path leads to the first high trough, which is equipped with split tree trunks and small wooden bridges. It leads through beautiful alpine pastures. After about an hour you reach a magnificent summit with a view of the Oberiberg to the right and the even more powerful Mythos to the left. If you look for the gap in the fir forest on the left, you will find the unique view of the myth and in the middle the Rigi Tower in the background. A beautiful raised moor with magnificent flowers on the right accompanies the hiker on this route.

From here it goes gently uphill with a last short climb to Furggelenstock, from where the panoramic view extends to Zurich and beyond, with the mountains Tödi, Clariden, Muotathal and many more. If you want to avoid the short climb, you can choose the steep path on the left, which leads directly to the alpine hut, but then you will miss the wonderful panorama from the summit of the Furggelenstock.

From Furggelenstock it's a little steeper down to the summit (approx. 15 minutes) - you can already see the Furggelenhütte with the restaurant opposite, which has a motivating effect. In summer there is a rustic Furggelenhütte (tel. +41 55 414 23 37) everything is served from the farm - cheese and alpine meat are produced and sold on site. In winter the SAC is in the hut. The descent to Brunni takes just over an hour. The hiking trail crosses another raised moor, partly idyllic forest sections with many root networks and is often secured with wooden stakes and boards (warning: slippery after rain!). The last few minutes are spent on the asphalt road and the path ends directly in front of the Brunni inn (tel. +41 55 412 28 86) and the bus stop.

7-    Sihlsee (Willersee) - Stöcklichrüz - Diebishüttli - Lachen

The starting point of the hike is the Willerzell Bodenmattli bus stop in Sihlsee. From there follow the signs to Stöcklichrüz. Follow the asphalt road for about 100 meters before the path branches off to the right onto the hiking trail. From the beginning the path climbs quite steeply. You cross the mountain ridge through alpine pastures and quickly gain altitude. You soon have a wonderful view of Lake Sihl and on the other side of the lake you can see Einsiedeln with the monastery and the two ski jumps. The background is framed by the Wägital and Glarus Alps.

Passing several mountain crosses that invite you to take a break, after about an hour you reach Alp Summerig, from where you can enjoy an excellent view. Past Alp Grueb, where you take the left-hand path downhill, you walk along the edge of the forest to a large fireplace with a supply of firewood. The Stöcklichrüz can already be seen here. The path now continues in wide curves, past the Stöcklihütte, where you can take a lunch break, to the Stöcklichrüz with a striking cross and a panoramic sign. You reach the next viewing point via a ridge. A wonderful 360° panorama opens up over Lake Zurich, the Linth plain and the mountains. Benches invite you to linger.

The hiking trail now leads through alpine pastures over a wide hill to the next cross, where the Lachen ski hut with refreshments is located on the edge of the forest. From here it is a 10-minute walk to the Diebishütte (+41 79 689 79 07, open all year round on Friday, Saturday, Sunday and Monday). The cabin is beautifully located and has a fantastic panoramic terrace. The view extends from Lake Zurich over Lake Greifen and the Linth plain to the Zurich Oberland. In the background you can see the Säntis, the Speer and the Glarus Alps.

From Diebishüttli it is about a 10-minute walk to the Waldeggli mountain restaurant (open on Saturdays and Sundays), the next station. We continue across the meadows, still with a view of Lake Zurich, to another cross and viewing point and from there to the Bräggerhof restaurant (+41 55 442 11 13). From here you walk a short distance along the road and then turn left. The path leads steeply downhill at times through the forest, along a stream and finally through a large meadow, past the first houses in Lachen. The hike ends under the motorway and through residential areas at Lachen SZ train station.

8-    First - Bachalpsee - Faulhorn - Apparently Platte

The hike begins with a comfortable cable car ride from Grindelwald to the first mountain station. First there is a short but impressive climb to the rubber hut.

On the other side of the valley, the rugged peaks of Wetterhorn, Schreckhorn and Finsteraarhorn form a striking contrast to the pretty flower meadows along the way. From the Gummihütte you can reach the Bachalpsee after a short walk on more or less level ground. In the blue jewel of the Bernese Alps, the majestic Schreckhorn is reflected in the tranquility. Extensive meadows and numerous benches invite you to take a long break in front of a magnificent panorama.

Behind the lake, the Šumerweg leads up to the Burgihütte. Passing two huts you reach the alley floor. Not far away is the former Berghotel Faulhorn, from where you can enjoy beautiful sunrises and sunsets. The Faulhorn viewpoint offers a breathtaking view of all the mountain giants of the Bernese Oberland. In the opposite direction, the view extends over the foothills of the Alps, the Emmental, the Mittelland and the Jura to the Black Forest in Baden and the Vosges in Alsace. Seven Swiss lakes can be seen: Lake Zug and Lucerne in the east, Lake Brienz and Thun at your feet and Lake Biel, Murten and Neuchâtel in the west.

The Berghotel Faulhorn at an altitude of 2,681 m is the oldest mountain hotel in Switzerland. From here you can enjoy a 360° panorama. The mountain hotel has remained almost unchanged since it was built in 1830. It was an admirable achievement for its time and still deserves our respect today.

From the Faulhorn we descend through the scree to the Männdlenen hut. Here too we can fortify ourselves and spend the night. The route now leads along the panoramic path down to Platte Schynige.

Tip! Read more about the history of the Faulhorn mountain hotel.

9-    High-altitude hike Jaunpass - Hundsrügg - Saanenmöser

This hike may get some people out of bed early, as the route is a little longer depending on where you live, but this route is worth the effort: a panoramic view accompanies you! The starting point is the Jaun Pass, which connects the Gruyere region in Freiburg with the Simmental in the Bernese Oberland. The pass height is 1509 m above sea level. M and belongs to the municipality of Boltigen and the so-called Gastlosen area. The Gastlosen are of great and unique geological importance for Switzerland and the Alpine region.

After a coffee at the kiosk, which also offers refreshments, you can set off. Here you can stock up on hiking provisions again, because there are no pubs or restaurants on the entire route between the Hundsrüggpass and Saanenenmöser. Only after a few hours will you find a beautiful fireplace near the banks of the Simneu in the sparse forest. But you can enjoy your picnic with a view!

A gentle climb from the Jaun Pass, through alpine pastures and initially on a road, is a good start, perhaps more of a walk. You will soon reach the panoramic view - at the ski lift hut. We continue across alpine pastures with cows to the Oberegghütte (SAC/CAS) at 1818 m in Hürli, which is not managed. The hike takes about an hour. Here you will be greeted by Scottish highland cattle, who may be drinking liters of water from the well in front of the hut. In fact, our dairy cows need three to five liters of water per kilo of milk produced, and even more in summer. Luckily there are many troughs with fresh water in this area.

After a short climb, the path leads along the Hundsrügg summit and offers a fantastic panoramic view. The hiker's gaze is repeatedly drawn to the beautiful Alps such as the Stockhorn, the Vaud Alps, the Bernese Alps, the Wildstrubel in the southeast and the picturesque Simmental. But above all, it is the mountain range with the Gastlosen, the Sattelspitzen, the impressive Wandfluh as well as the Zuckerspitz and the Dent de Ruth that catches the eye. Depending on the season, a sea of ​​mountain flowers spreads out to the left and right of the mountain path: alpine ferns, men's flowers, women's mantles, blueberries and raspberries, alpine roses and much more - impressively colorful.

In a gentle ascent and descent, the promising path now leads over three peaks to the highest at 2047m. Now it goes on a gently sloping path between a steeper alpine meadow and - from Luegle (1840m) - then on a short path through a mountain forest and finally on a newly created path that leads almost directly to Alp na Bire (1789m). Here you can take a break between grazing cows and decide which descent you should choose: the steeper path to Kleine Simme on a dirt path or the slightly uphill path to Wildeneggli with a subsequent descent to Simmegrabe. Both paths ultimately lead to Saanenmöser. Of course you can also buy cheese on Alp Wildeggli. Our path leads to the fire pit in the sparse Simme forest below, about 40 minutes before Saanenmöser, where you can still cool your feet. This leads to the steepest path in the landscape. Either the path then continues through a beautiful mountain forest on the right side of the river, or you cross a bridge at Trineli with a slight climb of 70 meters and only then go over the Simme and along the Simmegraben to Saanenmöser - perhaps another 200 meters.

Directly opposite the train station and at the end of the path - after reaching Saanenmöser - you can fortify yourself for a long time on the terrace or in the beautiful old wooden cheese dairy of Bruno Kernen's Hotel Des Alpes before heading back home.

As the path runs on a ridge, extreme caution is required during thunderstorms, there is no shelter! So always hike with an eye on the weather. Although it is a mountain path, it is well maintained and can be walked with mountain boots even in wet weather. The times indicated on the signs are approximately those of an average hiker.

10- Niederhorn Panoramaweg - Beatenberg Waldegg

The starting point of the hike is the Niederhorn mountain station. It can be reached by cable car from Beatenberg (bus stop) or from Beatenbucht on Lake Thun, where you take the funicular to Beatenberg and then change to the cable car. Once you have reached the top of the Niederhorn, you have to go to the viewpoint. A wonderful panoramic view of Lake Thun and the world-famous triumvirate of Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau awaits you. The Berghaus Niederhorn (+41 33 841 11 10) right next to the mountain station offers refreshments.

The panoramic path leads slightly downwards from the Niederhorn to the Güggisgrat summit and offers a wonderful view of the Justistal. With a bit of luck you can spot ibexes, chamois and marmots. In the alpine huts of Oberburgfeld there is sometimes a simple catering option from July to August, and you can look over the mountaineers' shoulders while they make cheese.

From Oberburgfeld the path descends slightly through sparse fir and spruce forests to Chüematte. From there the path leads through denser forest to Hohwald. The path continues through flower-filled alpine pastures with views of the Alps to Waldegg, a district of Beatenberg where there are restaurants, hotels and the bus stop.

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