Mountaineering in Norway

Norway offers an incredible variety of climbing opportunities, from fjord-based sport climbing areas to polar alpine epics. The highlight of alpine climbing in Norway is the ascent of the "national mountain" Stetinden. The standard route has a difficulty rating of 5.6 YDS, while the tempting South Pillar route is ~5.9 YDS.

The Lofoten Islands are a popular destination for climbers, offering everything from tough bouldering to long alpine routes. Climbing opportunities can be found on almost every corner in Norway, so don't despair if your trip doesn't take you to one of these areas. Stop by your local outdoor sports store and look for a partner and information. Great climbing opportunities are available near almost every major city, including Bergen and Oslo.

Remember that weather plays an important role when climbing in Norway. It will rain at some point during your stay, if not all the time. Norwegian climbers have a philosophical view of rain and distinguish between two types of rain showers: those in which you can still climb and those that are too wet to climb in!

Not all rocks are suitable for climbing, but in Norway there are very few that are not climbable. The infamous Troll Wall, for example, is a 5,000-foot-tall boulder, but also one of the most sought-after walls in the world.

Bouldering:

- Trøndelag: Harbak and Vingsand. Best bouldering in the country.

- Oslo: has good boulders right on T

- Bergen: Øygarden & Matre.

Sport:

- Trøndelag: Flatanger and Hell

- West Coast: Sogndal, Stryn (Beachen)

Trad/alpine:

- Lofoten: Spectacular landscapes and alpine climbing right on the coast.

- Romsdal (Åndalsnes) - with classics such as the large wall Troll Wall and Romsdalshorn.

- Nissedal: long slab climbs.

Ice:

- Rjukan: the most famous ice climbing area in Norway.

- Oppdal/Sunndal: This area offers both ice climbing and long, serious alpine climbs. In recent years the area has developed significantly and many new alpine climbing routes have been created.

Mountaineering:

- Hurrungane: the main area for mountaineering and alpinism in Norway.

- Jotunheimen: high altitude, good spring skiing opportunities.

- Jostedal's glacier area

- Western Norway in general: Romsdal, Sunnmøre Alps, Nordfjord, Sogn. Large area with many possibilities.

- Lofoten

- Tromsø Alps

We have then listed 9 beautiful mountaineering routes from Norway for you:

1. Climbing in Stetind and around Narvik

Climbing guide for Stetind and NarvikStetind is Norway's national mountain and a great place for climbers and alpinists. The beautiful surroundings, spectacular location and clean-cut rocks make Stetind a unique mountain, often compared to a smaller version of the Matterhorn. The granite peak and curved ridges rise directly from the fjord to a height of 1.392 m.

The climbing style is geared towards long, alpine multi-pitch routes with up to 20 rope lengths. The classic routes are; Normalveien (standard route) with only 1 pitch (4+ or F4) but a lot of climbing with dizzying views along a razor-sharp ridge

Sydpilaren (south pillar) with 13 pitches of pure rock climbing with difficulty level 6 or F5b/c Vestveggen (West Face) is an 8 pitch climb (6+) to the main ridge. The summit is then reached via the west ridge, which involves 300m of easy climbing and then 6 pitches of climbing (6 or F6a). The best time to climb Stetind is from July to September, as there is a risk of snow at higher altitudes.

Climbing Guide Stetind and NarvikIf the weather is not suitable for climbing on Stetind, there are other climbing areas around Narvik. On the rural island of Hamarøy is the summit of Hamarøyskaftet (512 m high), which offers spectacular views. Also on Hamarøy there are picturesque sport climbing areas above a lake. There are large granite walls in Efjord and Skjomen. Skjomen has both sport and trad routes, is very remote and has a lot of potential for new routes. There are many easily accessible sport climbing areas around the Narvik regional center. The midnight sun period in Narvik ranges from late May to mid-July, making the region ideal for climbing from May to September.

2. Hægefjell bouldering and rock climbing

Hægefjell is a magnificent granite dome set in the small but rugged mountains of the Telemark region of southern Norway, southwest of Oslo.Hægefjell is located near Lake Nisser and offers both bouldering and long multi-pitch climbs on excellent granite rock.

Bouldering at Hægefjell

The bouldering area at Hægefjell is located around Landtakdammen, where all boulders can be reached within 5 to 15 minutes by car.There are over 180 boulders in a wide range of difficulty levels from Fb 3 to Fb 8a.In general the landings at Hægefjell are good (only 1 mat required), although some problems require multiple mats and spotters.

The boulders at Hægefjell are divided into 4 areas, all of which are close to each other.The 4 bouldering areas are Haegefjelltjorni, Meandersvingen, Sjefsteinen and Det torre elveleiet.

Multi-pitch climbing on Hægefjell

The granite dome of Hægefjell offers some fantastic long multi-pitch routes up to 500 m long.There are more than 50 independent routes at Hægefjell, characterized by long slabs and fine cracks that are both solid and clean.

The style and ethics of climbing at Hægefjell is predominantly trad climbing with cams and nuts, with bolts only applied when necessary and the element of adventure remaining.This means that bolts are a means of securing and not marking the path.An essential part of climbing in Hægefjell is identifying the weak points in the rock and thus finding the safest and easiest route to the next place where a belay can be installed.The stands are typically secured with bolts, and many of the bolts are modern, having been replaced in 2019.

Most climbers camp at Landtakdammen, which is very easy, with alternative sites next to Lake Nisser.

The best time for bouldering and climbing in Hægefjell is in May, June and August.Although climbing is possible in July, the area is infested with insects that can make life unpleasant, and climbers are more likely to use the Nisser Lake campsite during this time.

Getting to Hægefjell is relatively easy. From the northern mainland, the easiest route is via Denmark, with a ferry to Kristiansand being the quickest route. Alternatively, you can fly to Oslo or Stavanger, from where you can get to Hægefjell in 4 hours.

3. Climbing in Setesdal

The Setesdal Valley is located in southern Norway, southwest of Oslo, and is one of Norway's most accessible climbing areas from the rest of Europe. Climbing is centered in the town of Valle, where there are many large granite domes scattered on both sides of the valley. These granite domes offer many excellent long and short slab routes. However, there are not only slab routes, but also a good mix of wall and crack climbing.

There are a variety of long multi-pitch routes with up to 18 pitches and shorter single-pitch routes at the rock bases. The climbing is spread over a wide range of grades with many routes between Norwegian 5 to 7 (English VS to E2/3 or French 4+ to 6c). There is also a mix of traditional and sporty routes, with many of the belays set on good quality granite rocks. In the southern part of Setesdal, near Evje, is the bouldering area with around 150 bouldering problems.

The best time to visit Setesdal for climbing is from the end of May to the end of September. Setesdal has the added advantage of being in the rain shadow of the mountains on the west coast. This means that the weather will be very stable and warm when a high pressure area establishes itself over southern Norway, which is often the case.

Setesdal climbing guideThe current climbing guide has the simple title "Setesdal - Climbing in Southern Norway". This guide describes more than 670 routes, a wide range of bouldering problems and 3 Via Ferrates routes. The guide, published in 2021, is written throughout in Norwegian, German and English, with all routes shown on color photo topos.Buy this Setesdal climbing guide in our shop.

Getting to Setesdal is relatively easy. On the northern mainland of Europe, traveling via Denmark by ferry to Kristiansand is the fastest route. Alternatively, you can fly to Oslo or Stavanger, from where you can reach Setesdal in 4 hours.

For accommodation there is a campsite in Valle. Here you can also rent a hytte (cabin), which is more convenient if you come to Norway by plane and don't want to take heavy camping equipment with you.

4. Climbing in the Lofoten

The Lofoten Islands are located off the northwest coast of Norway, approximately 200 km north of the Arctic Circle, and consist of five large and five small islands. On these islands, a series of granite peaks rise from the sea, over 1.000 m high and offer many excellent traditional multi-pitch routes up to 500 m long. These granite mountains offer some of Norway's most scenic and spectacular climbing routes.

Granite peaks in the LofotenThe center of climbing is the village of Henningsvaer with its own climbing café. Here and around the neighboring village of Kelle are some of the most popular and well-developed climbing areas in Lofoten. There is a wide range of short and long multi-pitch routes, including some beautiful seaside rock climbing. Many climbers are also drawn to the large walls, e.g. b in Preston and Pillaren.

The best time for climbing in Lofoten is in the summer months of June, July and August. During this time the weather is usually stable, and with the added benefit of the sun shining 24 hours a day, you can start climbing whenever you want.

Getting to Lofoten is a big undertaking in itself as it is far from the rest of Europe. Ideally you should take at least 2 weeks and stay longer if possible. Access to Lofoten is via Bodo, from where you can either fly to Svolvaer or rent a car and take the ferry to Svolvaer. To get to Bodo, a domestic flight is required, available from Oslo, Bergen or Trondheim airports. The Lofoten Climbs travel guide also contains detailed information about the different ways to travel to Lofoten.

5. Hike (slope) to Trolltunga (Troll's Tongue)

The hike starts from the car park in Skjeggedal about 100 m backwards on the right side of the access road. The signage is clearly visible and you will also find signposts during the hike showing the distance you have traveled. show the distance still to be covered. The hardest and most strenuous part awaits us right at the beginning of the hike: approx. 400 m with an extreme incline must be overcome over several 1000 wooden and slightly brittle steps (old abandoned cable car). Alternatively, you can choose the steep but shady path through the forest. At the end of the cable car route you reach a plateau that invites you to view a breathtaking mountain landscape.

Along the way you cross several streams through a relatively flat river valley, where you can easily replenish your drinking water supplies. After another moderate hike on a pebble path, you reach another plateau overlooking lakes and green spaces with panoramic views as far as the eye can see. With a bit of luck, you will cross fields of shimmering white snow. The two longest climbs have been completed and the remaining path to the stone tongue is well signposted and accessible. Throughout the day you will meet numerous people queuing up to take a souvenir photo on Trolltunga. The rocky outcrop is about 10 m long and extends horizontally over the Ringedalsvatnet reservoir, which is 350 m below. The return journey is down the same path and is very pleasant (apart from a few wobbly legs from the hike uphill).

6. Ersfjord 2-day ridge hike on the island of Kvaloya, Tromso

The Ersfjord is a fjord on the island of Kvaløya in the municipality of Tromso in northern Norway. It is surrounded on both sides by high mountains that fall directly into the water. This 2-day Ersfjord ridge crossing is an amazingly long climb that takes us along the entire Ersfjord.

Our adventure begins in the small village of Rekvik on the west side of the island with the peak of Skamtind and ends at Blåmann (1044 m), the highest peak on the island. During the entire crossing we overcome 2800 meters in altitude and cover a distance of 16 kilometers. This spectacular climb follows narrow ridges, peaks and pinnacles along the fjord until we reach Blåmann. Please note that some parts of the ridge are very exposed and require climbing with ropes.

Along the crossing we also pass other mountains such as Storstolpan, Brattbergtinden, Store Hollenderen, Brattbergtinden, Styrmannstind, Melketind, Zappfetoppen and many more. If you want to be part of this fantastic ridge crossing, send me a request. Book your trip and we'll start planning this great climbing tour in Tromso. Also check out the Otertind climb in the Lyngen Alps, which I also lead.

7. Ascent of Otertind in the Lyngen Alps

The Otertind is a symbolic 1354 m high peak in the Lyngen Alps. It is certainly one of the most beautiful mountains in Norway and a fantastic climbing tour, even for inexperienced mountaineers! This Norwegian peak, sometimes referred to as the “Matterhorn of Northern Europe,” lies in the Storfjord in picturesque Signaldalen and requires no climbing experience. The terrain is steep, but offers easy climbing and scrambling sections. The entire tour will take you between 6 and 10 hours.

I will provide you with all the equipment you need for this climb. It is important that you bring good footwear to tackle the steep off-trail sections. Are you ready for an exciting climbing tour in Otertind? Send me an inquiry and we'll start planning this adventure in the Lyngen Alps! If you're looking for a more challenging climb in Norway, check out this Piggtind climb, also in the Lyngen Alps.

8. 6-day alpine climbing course near Jostedalen in Norway

Head straight to the heart of Norway and start the mountaineering course of a lifetime! This six-day, guided program will give you the tools to advance your career as a mountaineer in one of the most remote and impressive areas on earth!

Norway's untouched wilderness is every adventurer's dream. From enchanting valleys and historic peaks to glacial lakes and lush meadows, those looking for a true nature holiday will find it all in the center of the hospitable Scandinavian country. The crowning glory of this fjord-rich majesty is Jostedalen, a valley with lush terrain in every direction and a perfect place to become a better mountaineer.

Our program is designed to give you the fundamental skills you need to achieve mountaineering goals around the world in all possible environments. We will cover rock and ice climbing as well as rope, belay and rescue techniques in both forms. We will incorporate thorough safety training into all areas of the course and ensure a high standard of safety before, during and after our climbing tours.

Over the six days of the course, you will have ample opportunity to learn basic skills and practices and improve on those you have already acquired. We will use the scenic backdrop of the incredible Scandinavian mountains to focus on climbing, rappelling, understanding topography, navigation and program planning. At the end of your week in Norway, you will be able to perform multi-pitch climbs on a challenging destination with newfound comfort and renewed energy.

There are some great challenges in Jotunheimen that add an exciting layer to the alpine climbing course, including Sore Dyrhaugstind (2.072 m) and Dyrhaugsrydden, a heartbreaking crossing that is as fun as it is visually impressive. On this unforgettable tour, you'll learn the skills you need to develop as a climber and apply what you've learned in practical climbing tours. There is no better place for a course like this.

Safety is our top priority and I will make sure you have the time of your life in the safest way possible. I'm always happy to show others the hidden wonders of Norway and I look forward to helping you experience Norway like a local.

As an introductory program to rock and ice climbing, our course is ideal for climbers who already have glacier and hiking experience. A high level of physical fitness is crucial to the success of the program, as is the mental strength to complete a sustainable trip like this.

9. Jotunheimen

Jotunheimen (which means "Home of the Giants") is undoubtedly the most famous mountain area in all of Scandinavia. Located in the southern part of Norway, it is a magnificent mountain range covering an area of ​​approx. 3500 km² and includes the highest mountains in Norway. The highest mountain in Jotunheimen and in all of Norway is Galdhøpiggen 2469 m, closely followed by Glittertind 2464 m, which is only a few meters lower and lies immediately east of Galdhøpiggen. According to the latest official height, it is only five meters lower than Galdhøpiggen, but its height varies depending on the snow depth and ice cap at its summit. The peak of Galdhøpiggen is rocky, while the peak of Glittertind is icy.Since the height difference between the two mountains is minimal, there has been a dispute over ranking in the past, also because measurements revealed that the height of Glittertind peak was supposedly greater than that of Galdhøpiggen when the glacier was measured. However, Glittertind's summit glacier has since retreated, so the dispute no longer exists. These mountains are two of Norway's 198 peaks that exceed the 2000 meter limit. Most of them are in the Jotunheimen area, including all above 2300 m. The highest mountains of Jotunheimen are located in the eastern part of the range, and although the mountains here are of a decidedly modest height compared to those in the Alps, the difference in height between the valleys and the peaks is considerable, with the valley height usually ranging between 400 and 1400 meters.

Although Scandinavia's highest mountains, Galdhøpiggen and Glittertind, can be found in eastern Jotunheimen, Hurrungane and Smørstabbtindane in the western part have a more alpine character. Jotunheimen has many glaciers, the largest of which are in the western part, where there are several mountains that cannot be climbed without crossing a glacier.

According to old Norwegian mythology, the gods lived in Åsgard, the people in Idgard and the evil giants in Jotunheimen.

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