Mountaineering in Italy

You will remember your vacation in Italy for a long time. In this article you will find some information about mountaineering tours in Italy.

The 10 most beautiful mountaineering tours in Italy

1-    Via the Oskar Schuster climb to the Plattkofel

From the entrance along the wire rope we go over a ramp. Then we go to a ledge in the rock bordering a gully. From here it goes steeply onto a ledge and we keep right onto the wall step. Further up we follow again slightly to the right into the further wall step and finally we go on a rib into a rubble cirque. After we cross this and climb the brackets through a smooth wall step, we reach a short ladder.

After the narrow gap over the wall steps we go onto a band that is exposed to the left around the corner. We then walk along the right edge of the gully to under the rock tower, which we go around on the left to reach the summit ridge. The descent follows over the southwest flank to the Plattkofelhütte or to the left before it on the Friedrich August Weg. This takes you back to the valley station of the Langkofelbahn.

2-    Vertainspitze north face of Sulden

At the foot of the ice wall we turn right and climb uphill along the edge of the ice, between the vertical ice wall and the rocks. At a slightly flatter spot we climb uphill onto the glacier on the left and have a wonderful place to stand on the next ledge. From there we go pretty straight up with a continuous incline (approx. 60°). Further up the wall is leaned back a bit, but you still have to stay roped up because some cracks run right through the ice. Now the wall becomes flatter and we can see the flatter place on the rocky ridge on the right, where it is best to climb up and follow the ridge uphill. The following ridge leads to a pre-summit, where you cross the slope on the east side to the summit of the Vertainspitze and have a particularly beautiful view of the glacier basin and the Hoher Angelus.

From the Vertainspitze we descend on the southwest side over the block ridge and cross a basin. The only markers are the cairns, but with a little orientation the path can be easily found. Below the Rosimjoch we descend to the Rosimferner and stick to the left edge of the glacier, either on ice or on rocks next to it. After we have left the ice behind us, we go down through the scree into Rosimtal and soon we are back on well-developed hiking trails. We always go straight ahead, as the wooden signs indicate, towards Sulden. At the wooden ibex sculpture on Rosimboden, the path branches off to Sulden. We then turn left and hike through the beautiful mountain pine forest down into the valley. As soon as we reach the ski area, we follow the wide forest road to the north. Shortly afterwards we leave the piste to the left and follow a forest path under a lift. After a bridge over the stream we reach the small drag lift that we already know from the ascent route and shortly afterwards we reach the parking lot.

3-    Lean stone southwest pillar

From the Egger Höfe car park in Antholz Mittertal we walk on the hiking trail in the direction of Rieserfernerhütte to the tree line. Before the path goes slightly downhill to 2040m. Crossing a large ditch, we leave the path and climb over a grassy ridge directly towards the pillar. At the beginning, from the edge to the entrance, we walk over flat slabs and can still move easily without ropes. The entrance is at 2500m. and the walking time is approx.2 hours.

After we arrive at the last pitch, we abseil seven times using the abseiling piste on the Heimatbühne route on the southern wall of the pillar. Only a short 20m., then 50-60m each. Orographically we always have to stay slightly to the right. The last stand is a little hidden in the niche below the edge. All abseiling stands are equipped with carabiners and slings. From the base of the wall we make our way back along the same route as the approach.

4-    Krobath Metzger Korspite Nordkante

From Riofreddo we ride either by bike or by e-bike along the forest road into the Kaltwassertal. At the end of the valley the forest road climbs up and we drive up to around 1220m. sea ​​level. The forest road splits here. We take the left fork and reach about 1320m. Above sea level, take hiking trail no.618. Here we stow the bike (e-bike) and follow the path. At approx.1420m. This path also splits at sea level and we turn left onto path no.630 towards bivouac “Carnizza di Riofreddo”. From here we hike approx.45min. pathless, in a west-southwest direction along the striking, yellow north wall from the top of the ladder to the entrance at approx.1800m. sea ​​level. The entrance is at the right intersection. In early summer you can still encounter the remains of old snow.

We climb over the striking Kugyband in a westerly direction, past the stone men and some wire insurance, initially on the northern side. In the Pinnacolo del Vallone area we now come to the southern side of the mountain range and follow the trails. This is how we reach the via ferrata of the eastern Kaltwasserscharte. Now it's approx.50 meters up to the gap and back down into the Kaltwasserkar. The top area is again secured with ropes and is not very easy to walk because the gravel is not very firm. In retrospect, path no.627 but it gets better and better and we reach path no.618, which takes us back to the bike.

5-    Large tip of ears:

In the first part of the rope length there are a few standard hooks and the first belay is also equipped with two profile hooks. The rest only has mobile backups. However, on the rock we have many good options for securing yourself with wedges and friends. The abseiling part goes along a set-up abseiling slope with normal hooks.

The start is from Lake Antholz and we follow path no.39 After approx.500m. When we arrive at Riepboden, we turn right in front of the Stein memorial plaque. Shortly afterwards we look for the cairns. We follow these and continue to climb steeply up to the grassy shoulder. From there we can clearly see the large tip of the ear. From there we look for the best way to get first in the direction of Tuplenscharte (the entrance). The ascent time takes approx.2 to 2.5 hours

From the last set-up spot we rope 3x60m. in a direct line. The abseiling stands are also set up in each case. From there we climb with easy climbing approx.100m. into the wide ditch. Then we take the ascent route back to the starting point at Lake Antholz.

6-    Bella e Cattiva - Val Di Ledro

We walk along the old road, which initially runs through a short tunnel, to the barrier where driving is prohibited. We continue on the road for a short while until we reach a rockfall net, where there is a path uphill behind it. We go up this path and come to the pillar with the Caino e Abele route. From there we go right up to the flat rock face, to Via Plaisir. Arriving at the stone trap net, we continue towards Lake Garda around the small corner and come to a wall where the "Primavera" route is on the left. At the end of the wall we continue along the path until, after the small scree, we come to the corner of the "Messalina" and "Via Bella e cattiva" routes. The route is marked in black.

To descend we go left on the path at the top, then on the path down to Ponalestrasse and on this back to the parking lot.

7-    Via Settimo Cielo - Val Di Ledro

We walk along the old road, which initially runs through a short tunnel, to the barrier where driving is prohibited. We continue on the road for a short while until we reach a rockfall net, where there is a path uphill behind it. We go up this path and come to the pillar with the Caino e Abele route. From there we go to the right below the rock. We descend into a zigzag bend and reach the corner under the overhanging rock face. We continue to stay on the lower path and after the old stone wall we come closer to the rock face again. There we go slightly uphill to the rocks and to the start of the climbing tour at the striking plate, where there is a board with the route name.

To descend we go left on the path at the top, then on the path down to Ponalestrasse and on this back to the parking lot.

8-    Kluckner Sartori - Parete Dallas

From our starting point Arco/San Martino, we walk along the street below the Parete Dallas. On the left side of the gravel works, the meadow path leads us between the plantations, where we immediately go right through the old iron gate and then on the narrow gravel path uphill to the climbing garden. In the climbing garden we keep to the far right, where the Kluckner/Sartori is marked as the last tour in the climbing garden.

From the exit we turn right and walk along the path along the edge of the rock. Then we walk right again along the cairns on the path to the hiking trail. Then we descend on the hiking trail to San Martino/Arco.

9-    Ferrata Corna Delle Capre – Lake Iseo

We start at the parking lot at the turnoff to the Splazza di Sopra Alm and follow the path towards the alpine hut, but go past it on the upper side and get directly to the entrance below the rock face.

Tip: If you do not drive your car to just before the Splazza di Sopra Alm and your car may be. If you park further down, where the road is still asphalted, you will have to allow more time for the ascent and descent.

Leave your via ferrata equipment on at the meadow summit of Corna delle Capre! From the end of the via ferrata, after the steep C-climbing section, we go steeply down a path through the forest. At the bottom we reach the hiking trail, which we then follow to the entrance. Then we go back to the parking lot on the previously known ascent route.

10- Follia D'Estate - Croce Di Ceniga

From the parking lot we go to the Roman bridge and turn left towards Monte Colt. Immediately after the olive terraces we don't continue to the right, but rather straight on the forest path into the forest. After a short hike, a path branches off to the right, which we follow uphill to the climbing garden. From the climbing garden we walk uphill along the wall and reach the Follia d' Estate, which is one of the first multi-pitch tours along the climbing garden.

At the end of the route we can descend to the right on the faint red marked path and reach the hiking trail further down. We descend this way to the parking lot. Alternatively, you can go up to the summit cross and follow the well-marked path back to Ceniga and then turn right at the Roman bridge to the car park.

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