Mountaineering / climbing in Austria

It is a very special feeling to have the summit cross in view, now the last meters, now the last steps. Take a deep breath and then enjoy the view from all sides. The High King has with his 2.941m. Altitude doesn't have a legendary reputation among mountaineers for nothing. There is everything your mountaineering and climbing heart desires in the region around the Hochkönig for hobby climbers and experienced professionals alike. The climbs and routes are varied from easy to the highest level of difficulty. They make the Hochkönig a climbing and mountain sports paradise in the Alps.

10 challenging mountain routes

“The land of the mountains” is the beginning of the national anthem. There are actually many peaks in Austria. Quite a few. There are already a few 1000 and 979 of them are even over 3.000m. high. In such a situation it is really difficult to decide when choosing a tour. We have collected a mix of 10 very demanding mountain routes for you:

1-    The Dremelspitze in the Lechtal Alps

• Difficulty level: difficult
• Duration of the tour: 9-10 hours
• The height difference: 1500 meters
• Starting point: parking lot near Boden (1350m)

The climb begins at the small parking lot. After the town of Boden we walk along the Angerlebach, past the material cable car from the Hanauer Hütte through the entire Angerletal. At the end of the valley the path becomes steeper. We pass the entrance to the via ferrata from the Hanauer Hütte and reach after approx. 2 hours to the Hanauer Hütte.

Now we orientate ourselves in a southerly direction from the Hanauer Hütte and aim for the western Dremelscharte at 2434m. at On the northern side of the cirque you can find extensive snowfields until late in the summer. Grödeln or crampons may be possible. make the climb much easier. In order to climb to the top of Dremel, you have to fulfill the IIth UIAA degree. This runs through a well-marked labyrinth with steep gullies and jagged ridges.

The old snow fields can make your climb very difficult and you may need Grödeln or crampons. After you arrive at the summit of the Dremelspitze you will be rewarded with an imperial view on all sides. To the west you can see the highest peak, the Lechtaler and the Parseier Spitze, to the north the peaks of the Hornbachkette and the Hochvogel, and to the south the Inn Valley. To the western or front Dremelscharte for the descent we walk along the ascent path and concentrate fully again for approx. 300 meters altitude.

2-    The Grandlspitz via ferrata

• Difficulty level: medium
• Duration of the tour: approx. 4 hours
• The height difference: 2310 meters
• Starting point: parking lot (1400m)

We go towards Hochkönig. The approach branches off after approx.2000m. Turn right to the Grandlspitz via ferrata. We keep right to a saddle and a crossing to the left under the base of the wall. The via ferrata requires approx.40 mins (140Hm) gradient. From the summit we descend southeast into a saddle and go down to the right in the gully, then left out of this gully and cross a ridge around to the saddle of the ascent path.

The Grandlspitz via ferrata is small but nice and loses in importance because of the neighboring Königsjodler, although it is just as exposed and difficult and can easily keep up with its "big brother". The via ferrata was built by Richard Franzl and actually serves more as a “test via ferrata” for the much more difficult Königsjodel. But it's not only worth it as such, but also as a combination of exceeding the day cap. This combination creates a very nice round. Despite its brevity, it should not be underestimated as it is quite exposed and demanding.

3-    The royal yodeler

• Difficulty level: hard
• Duration of the tour: approx. 11 hours
• The height difference: 2852 meters
• Starting point: parking lot (1545m)

After a steep climb, the shallow gully in front of us leads to the "Flower Tower". After a flat ridge we descend into a gap and then climb the Mühlbacher Tower. We then follow the Via Mala gorge and the “Jungfrauensprung” straddling step. Now we climb the Teufelsturm via the Porti-Sport-Diretissima. We then climb steeply down, then onto the airy three-cable bridge "Kranabetter-Steg" and then over the Teufelsschlucht. We climb a little further on the Lehner traverse and a briefly unsecured section follows before we reach an insured ridge again. It then descends steeply into the Sallerriss. If you don't want to climb all the way down into this deep gap, you can use the Flying Fox and get to the side opposite. It then goes steeply up to the 2nd.522m. high devil horns. Now we reach the Dientner Schneid via the airy Brücknergrat, constantly going up and down. There is also an airy Bosch promenade here and then, after a short climb down, we reach a gap where there is an emergency exit into the Birgkar.

4-    Summit climber route to Bertgenhütte

• Difficulty level: medium
• Duration of the tour: approx. 5 hours
• The height difference: 1858 meters
• Starting point: Church in Hinterthal (1058m)

We start in Hinterthal at the church. From there we go along a forest road, along the Urslau, right towards Poschalm. Shortly before the alpine pasture, the hike takes us across the meadows and through the forests to the steep path that leads to the Bertgenhütte. Just like the descent, the ascent also occurs.

ATTENTION: The tour is a route that leads through alpine terrain. It therefore only requires good equipment and practice. Always check the weather situation before setting off on the tour.

5-    From Falkensteig to Türkenrutsch

• Difficulty level: easy
• Duration of the tour: approx. 2 hours
• The height difference: 1118 meters
• Starting point: Türkenjagd hiking car park (610m)

We go up to the right at the foot of the tower, up to the first tower. We continue along the ridge to the second tower and keep right down into the gap in the forest. Here we come to the hiking trail and walk right around the next rock structure to the wall with the ridge window. Now we go steeply up to the window, then keep right to the ridge and turn left at the top. Now we continue along the ridge, cross the turrets and go flat down into a gap. On the steep and somewhat shaky path we reach the fourth tower and then go briefly downhill. From here we can go left again to the hiking trail and continue in the forest on trails until we reach the highest point after a rocky shed.

6-    The Spiral Path – The Stafflacher Wand

• Difficulty level: medium
• Duration of the tour: approx. 4 hours
• The height difference: 1565 meters
• Starting point: via ferrata car park (633m)

At the parking lot we follow the signs to the via ferrata and climb up to the small Rumlich chapel after the last house on the right. Behind the chapel we pass the two houses on the edge of the forest on the right and keep going up to the right, past a radio dish until we come to a forest road. Continue on this to the left until you reach the first bend and then follow the path steeply uphill to under the wall. At the end we go steeply to the white overhang, where we climb the narrow band under the overhang to the right and along the steel cable to the entrance. It is better to put on your climbing equipment at the start of the narrow ledge.

From the exit we follow the blue dot markings to the left and come to a fence on the other side of the fence. Then we descend along the fence until we reach the descent path of the via ferrata. On this we descend further into the valley.

7-    The Gippel panoramic pillar

• Difficulty level: medium
• Duration of the tour: approx. 6 hours
• The height difference: 1669 meters
• Starting point: Kernhof train station (590 m)

From the start at the train station in Kernhof we follow the asphalted road to the last farm. Here we continue straight ahead along the ascending forest road. After approx.75 mins After walking we reach a right-hand bend that cuts into a gully. We climb steeply along the gravel gully until it splits into two arms. We follow the left gully over the stepped terrain until we reach a steep wall where we find the entry point. The entire climb takes between 2 to 3 hours, depending on your speed. In the upper area you can also find easy climbing areas up to 2, depending on the precise choice of line. Find degrees.

We first follow the Treibsteig from the summit to Gippeltörl. Now the path leads steeply down and after a while we cross a forest road, which we follow to the left. On the following serpentine we keep left again and the forest road climbs slightly again until we come to another serpentine on the previous ascent route. The descent is long, but quite pleasant and easy on the knees.

8-    The castle stone wall

• Difficulty level: medium
• Duration of the tour: approx. 4 hours
• The height difference: 2815 meters
• Starting point: via ferrata car park (1150 m)

After starting at the via ferrata parking lot, we walk across the main road and cross the stream on a bridge right next to the bus stop. We walk left along the base of the wall until we reach the via ferrata. We walk past the entrance to the via ferrata and over the gate into the meadow. After the gate we go straight up to the right and on a path under the wall. Approx.50m To the left of the beginning of the fixed rope, which we need for the approach to the "Black Wall" and the "Swallow's Nest", we find the start of the route Lina's dream journey. From there we climb along the wall to the left to the entrance.

Alternatively, we can also walk straight ahead across the meadow and climb over two fences, then we briefly turn right up to the third fence. There it goes steeply into the forest and up to the entry ramp. It's best to rope up there straight away, as the ramp is quite dirty. We then follow the old fixed rope and the belay area becomes visible at the end of the ramp.

We then abseil down the route and at the end of the second pitch we abseil straight down, just like on "Lina's Dream Trip".

9-    The lockdown head scratching

• Difficulty level: medium
• Duration of the tour: approx. 10 hours
• The difference in altitude: 1985 meters in altitude
• Starting point: Jägerwirt car park (802 m)

We start at the Gasthof Jägerwirt car park and climb towards Treffauer. At the waterfall we go up to the right and then cross left through pines to the large boulder above the waterfall. The entrance is at the porch between two distinctive gutters. We go via the left gully to Romantica, then 100 m. turn left to Grandpa Highway. Then there is a porch and a board with the inscription “Lockdown” is mounted at the entrance.

We continue around the corner to the left and keep left until we reach the summit or in approx.300 m. to the normal path until we reach a junction in the direction of Treffauer near the waterfall.

10- The single trail Repswand

• Difficulty level: hard
• Duration of the tour: approx. 7 hours
• The height difference: 1610 meters
• Starting point: Kastenalm (1222 m)

We start at the Schraffelbrücke car park in Scharnitz and cycle 14 km. down to the valley floor of the Kastenalm. Approx.100m. In front of the Kastenalm car park we drive left through a gate and in 5 minutes. with the bike in the direction of Rossloch until we reach under the wall. Then we follow the stone men below the wall on the right for 10 minutes. until entry. From the Kastenalm we walk about 30 minutes. until entry.

We rope down the Bike 2 Crack route in a straight line with 4x 60m. and follow the path to the starting point.

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